Tobago Magic
Rainforest Revisited
It has been a very long time since I spent time on this island that once was my second home - Tobago, the quiet sister isle of Trinidad, at the southernmost end of the arc of Caribbean islands, just off the coast of Venezuela.
I was there when the reef was still vibrant with colorful corals and brimming with fishes that looked like they had been painted by an artist in a psychedelic trance. Sadly, tourism and its impact on the marine environment along with the warming of the ocean water led to bleached corals and a poverty of fish.
I was there when Scarborough was a sleepy little town - now its narrow roads are crowded with cars, a noisy bottleneck for vehicles coming down the modern highway from the airport and from other parts of the island.
I was there when the Queen of England paid her last visit to the island, long after the nation had gained its independence from Great Britain. She only had a small entourage and a few body guards with her. Up close, she was just a middle-aged woman with a funny hat and gloves, entirely overdressed for the hot, humid climate.
I was there when the great calypso singers were in their prime and got to meet quite a few of them in person: Chalkdust, the Might Sparrow, Lord Kitchener, Gypsy.
I was there, at the table with then Prime Minister ANR Robinson and met the brilliant Dr. JD Elder, a Tobago born anthropologist, ethnomusicologist, educator and cultural advocate.
Things have changed - the current prime minister of T&T, Kamla Persad-Bissessar, has collaborated with Trump during his invasion of Venezuela.
I had almost forgotten what it felt like to be in the tropics near the equator - swatting mosquitos and dripping with sweat from the humidity while admiring the flowering shrubs and trees, the colorful birds from the tiny jeweled hummingbirds to the magnificent frigate birds circling the sea and the disconcerting cries of the chacalaca, the breathtaking sunsets over the Caribbean Sea, the turquoise color of the ocean, the friendliness of the people, the ever-present beat of soca music.
Spending this vacation with my daughter and my grand children was extra special. The kids were there for the first time and couldn’t stay away from the beach, loved hiking to a mystical waterfall and feeding hummingbirds from their outstretched hands. When I asked them what they most liked about their trip, they responded: “Everything!”
Most importantly, they are experiencing another culture, noticing the multi-racial makeup of the population, becoming accustomed to hearing a different version of the English language, trying new foods, making connections with extended family members they had never met, and learning geography and history lessons in real time.
I loved the small villages, nestled into the hillsides rising from the sea, like the village of Speyside. I loved the artistic creativity in repurposing materials like these tin cans:
I treasured meaningful conversations with local people, their assessment of the challenges they face as climate change and environmental issues are becoming more pronounced, as politics and economic realities are changing. It made me realize that we are all in this together, on this blue-green planet we call home.
I am leaving you with this upbeat message at an eco farm I visited:
Upcoming Retreats
Kalunyahawi’s Coming Home 2 Self Retreat, Aug 28-30, 2026, a unique opportunity for women to go deep into nature and themselves with K’s Native American practices. I am hosting the retreat on our property in the Highlands of Virginia and will lead one of the workshops. More details & registration
Between Tides: Nature, Creativity & Renewal, October 8-11, 2026, Chincoteague Island, Virginia. Click for more details & registration
If this is the first Seasons of a Wild Life post popping into your inbox, you can find out more about me and my mission here: How Did You End Up Here.
If you are a follower on the app, please become a subscriber by providing your email. Each new post gets delivered directly to your inbox!
Gorgeous place! Love that sign at the end. 💚
Looks wonderful! How wonderful for your grandchildren to experience this magical place.